Bolting and Big Wall skills The aim of the 6 day course is to coaching the skills required to put up sports routes. Creating single climbs and multi pitch routes. All rope work and bolting skills will be covered along with a team effort, as part of there training, to create a new Big Free route.
Skills covered All rope work for building belays. Bolting on the lead. Bolting from the top. Placing expansion and glue in bolts. Use of fixed ropes and ascending- descending while bolting. Choosing a safe line. Use of portages ledges. Spend a night win a portaledge. Hauling bags. Aid Climbing Free Climbing and placing fixed gear. Use of pegs, hooks and beaks. Climb a new Big Wall route
Program First two days will spend on single pitch climbing areas covering all the skills including placing bolts (Expansion and glue in)and creating new routes. All the equipment will be thoroughly used. The next 4 days the team will create a new climb on an unclimbed face. All skills covered for fixing ropes, using portal edges, hauling bags and cleaning routes. Climbers will get the opportunity to spend time sleeping on porteraledges.
Accommodation and Venues to be decided on closer to time depending on travel options.
The small coastal tourist town of Santa Maria Navarrese sits on the wild Eastern coast of Sardinia. Its perched at the southern end of the Supra Monte with no coastal roads and endless he cliffs. The town offers plenty of accommodation. The intention will be to hire an apartment and self cater.
Leonidio is a coastal town set in the heart of the Polopebnse penisula of Greece. Its easy to get to from Athens with the use of a hire car. It has lots of potential plus many excisting long free sports routes. Ideal winter venue.
Taghia is just one of those places you have to visit. A small village set in the heart of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. From this spectacular remote Berber village 4 big Gorges spiral out. There are walls over over 800m. Many excisting climbs are already estabilished but the scope is endless. The limestone is perfect for free climbing. Ideal for grouznd up bolted routes. I have climbed here 10+ trips and established new routes. We live with a Berber famiuly in their Gite. Its coimfortable and the food is excellent.
The cost off the accommodation is not included in the course fee. Once we have the numbers the team will organise the apartment.
Equipment for the bolting course We will need a lot of kit for such a course. Climbers will be expected to arrive with a rope, rack and general climbing equipment. Fixed Ropes, 3 drills, spare batteries, portaledges and rainflys for 5, haul bags and most of the aiding equipment will be provided. The cost of the bolts and anchors will be split amongst the course members. A trade deal will allow to keep costs low. Expected around £30 to £50 per person.
Is the Course for me? I am assuming all climbers are experienced leaders and can lead at least 6a/b and leading VS Trad on crags not just indoor. Most climbers who have enquired have much more experience but I would say you need to feel comfortable at this grade at least. It’s for experienced climbers not a beginners course. The aims are to teach the skills for climbers to go and create their own routes.