Lawrence of Arabia wrote about his arrival in Wadi Rum as seeing the `Seven Pillars of Wisdom`. The magical Pillars and Walls greatly impressed Lawrence clearly in his book and without doubt his words were not over emberlished. Ther magical area of Red anmd yellow rock has produced one of the most stricking areas for climbers to visit. Itrs a protecgted area for its beauty, historical and environmental significance. A region of the Beduin people who roam with camals and now 4x4s. Sand, Sun and endless rock climbingh possibilities. The area has its first Guide book from the egmatic Tony Howard. Tony was on the first ascent of Troll Wall Europes Tallest wall in Norway and started Troll Britian and thge Worlds first harness manufactures. Climbing sprung into action only in recent years in 1984.
Most of the climbers interested in this course have ambitions to climb Big Walls and or learn the skills of creating new routes. The course will help develop the skills required to tackle longer climbs, Big Walls and aid and free climbs. Its not a Guided course but a skills trip for climbers who are happy to lead. Climbers need to comfortably climb 6b French grade. Have some experience of multipitch routes.
Saturday the 19th to Tuesday 29th March 2022 Classic Climbs/Big Wall-9 days climbing
The dates have been chosen to co inside with the Easyjet flights leaving Gatwick, London and returning. All flights with Easyjet fly to Aqaba which is a short taxi ride to Wadi Rum. You can fly to Amman but the journey is much longer. Team will take a taxi together to Wadi Rum whicgh I will organise. Once in Wadi Rum we will use local taxi 4×4 to access the climbing on a drop off pick up basis.
We will be based at a Beduim climbing site. were folk can either stay in local accommodation or camp as they prefer. We will have access to inside living space and cooking facilities.We can buy local food prepared and in small shops.
Rough Programe for 6 days
Day 1 Chance to climb! Get people free climbing on one of the many local crags. Overview of ropework. Rigging anchors. Anchor placements. Belaying direct, indirect. Abseiling and with haulbags. Hope to clean a new route. Creating new climbs. Get to grips with the terrain.
Day 2 Looking at basic aid climbing techniques using nuts, cams, pitons, hooks, beaks,mashies etc. Different systems for aiding on etriers. Placing hand drilled bolts for anchors. Using replacement bolts. Resin bolts. Using zip lines and racking.A chance to free climb also hopefully! Aim to mimisie the use of bolts wherre possible. But on abseil stations to place bolts that are suitable in the conditions of the area.
Day 3 to 9 Free climbing long routes. Being efficient on change overs. Yosemite style approach with hauling. French free tactics. Hauling small bags. Climb a long multi pitch locally. Summit Bivi. Scrambling longer Beduim route to look at moving quick and use of short rope techniques.
Who For ?
Climbers must be capable of leading 6a and following 6b on sports routes and leading outside. Not suitable for beginner climbers. If climbers have solid sports climbing background that is fine. Trad climbing is essential skill to have and will be covered in depth including double rope technique.
Course length: 11 days with 9 full days climbing. 1 to 2 ratio
Cost for my services plus use of any specialised gear £1200 per person. This includes my travel, my expendses in country.Deposit to secure course place £350.
Expenses NOT include
Travel to Jordan
Travel return in group taxi to Wadi Rum.
Local taxi each day to crag
Mike Twid Turner
I have run Big Wall courses for 25 yrs. I am fully qualified IFMGA Guide and MIC with 30+ years of Big Wall experience. Ive climbed Big Wall routes in many places 50+ mostly first ascents: Brazil;Morocco; Alaska;Baffin; Greenland; Patagonia; Pakistan; Venezuala; Mexico; Mali; Madagascar;Norway; Sardinia; Borneo; Mexico; Alps and many US areas including Yosemite,Zion and Black Canyon.Happy to offer advice on planning and ideas. I started Big Wall courses at the UKs National Outdoor Centre PYB ,where I was Head of Rock Climbing for many years.
For the course will have to have everying with a * next to the gear at least.
*4 slings 1.2m
*3 prussik loops (6mm x1.5m lengths tied)
*6 Screwgate karabiners
Free Climbing Rack
*2 sets of nuts 1-10
*1 full set of cams to Big
*1 set of micro cams
*2 sets of micrto nuts
*14 quick draws various lengths
Aid Climbing rack
Piton selection 10. Knife blades, angles, leapers and lost arrows
Hooks 2 talons, 2 Petzl, one big one and cam hooks
*2 daisy chains
Loose biners 20.
Aiding seat handy
*70/80m Single rope. thicker the better. I use a 9.5mm diameter noithing less
A half rope for double rope technique and to be used as a zip line
Static rope 100m x 10mm
Rope bags are great. Ikea bags work well
Ideas on gear to buy
you need two bags
Stubby Haul bag
A small haul bag is great for haulling the rack and personal climbing kit. 50liter:
No point getting a medium size one. If you need one for Yosemite, The Nose go large , you will struggle , buy the biggest you can find.
There is no contest buy a D4 Portaledge https://d4portaledge.com if your lookiung for the best portaledge. D4 ledges are designed by the legendary Big Wall climber John Middendorf. John started the first Aid climbing gear company which he sold to BD. https://d4portaledge.com/d4-portaledge
I would buy 5 or 6 step etriers short alpine eteriers are not great., The offset are the modst common but for me the ladder shape are better esp when yiou are aiding in big boots. https://www.fr.campz.ch/ocun-ladder-h-step-longes-etriers-porte-materiel-gris-396416.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm8Cvp-OY7wIVSf7VCh1cjgCREAQYASABEgIZuPD_BwE&cid=21_1-1_9_2565_396416_469087302896_pla&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIm8Cvp-OY7wIVSf7VCh1cjgCREAQYASABEgIZuPD_BwE&ev_chn=shop&campaign_detail=smart_shopping
Get the long ones. Once they are larksfooted through your harness they should be long enough at full stretch to reach a placement. There are a few on the marked used for rigging and clipping anchors while sports climbing which are ghenerally too short esop for tall climbers.