20 Apr Brazil ‘Big Free Climbs’
The Potential Routes
Climbing around Rio
The trip would start by flying into Rio into one of its two International airports. Enjoy the sights and sounds of the beaches arouznd the City. Often we stay at a Cocabana beach Hotel. Rio has more rock climbing in its boundaries than any other City. You can climb on single piutch granit crags or on lonmg multipitch routes to fine summits. The Sugar Loaf being one of the most famous.
Pedra Riscada, the biggest wall in Brazil, a Huge 1200m Granite cliff in the area of Minas Gerais. There has been very few ascents of this mountain and only 3 recorded routes. Clearly a massive amount of potential for such a huge clean face. The last ascent was by a German team including Stephan Glowacz putting up the route called ‘a place of happiness’ at 7C+ shown below. There is a more amenable 1000m HVS called `Moon walker`which make an excellent two day climb.
The granite faces will have some cracks but generally the huge faces are featureless from cracks and traditional protection. This is why in the past the other teams have placed bolt protection. Our aim is to find traditional style climbs first and if there are no inspiring lines climb ground up placing bolt protection. This is a style not many British climbers have adopted.Twid has experience of this style of climbing on many climbs. It requires a bold approach to leading. The leader climbs till they can stop, balance, hang on a sky hook. They then pull up a cordless power drill on a haul line and place a bolt. Not always an easy thing to do after a long runout!