Poloponnese peninsula is the south western tip of Greece. Its a quiet and largely unspoilt area. For the climber it has large sections of exposed limestone rock with clean solid cliffs everywhere. The rugged coastline is intermingled with stunning sandy and pebbly beaches. Sports climbing has recently arrived to this beautiful part of Greece. The Peloponesse now offers climbing to rival the more famous Greek iskand of Kalymnos. The climbing offers steep tufas, to crimpy slabs, pocketed walls, single pitch routes and multi pitch adventures. All crags are also with in easy reach of a beach. When climbing has finished to relax there is an abundance of cultural sites to visits. You can visit old towns, monestries hanging off cliff edges, sunken temlples and old paths to stroll along by the blue sea. The ancient walled town of Monevisia and Sparta are a great rest day activity.
Suggested Venues
Leonidio
Leonidio has now stamped itself as a major venue with over 25 major climbing locations. Superb rock and a spectacular setting based around the coastal market garden town of Leonidio. Just to sample some of the excellent locally grown fruit and veg is worth the visit. The town has a very typical classic Greek character of narrow streets, small shops and clusters of cafes around a few shady squares. A wonderful place to mellow out after hard a hard day on the crag.
Courses base in Sabatyki at the Stathopoulos Apartments +306945235821 renasabatiki@yahoo.com
Kyparissi:
Kyparissi is situated in a secluded bay, accessed only by a spectacular mountain road.This paradise lost should be on every climbers tick list. Here, it seems, time stands still. The town has a small harbour, which used to be visited by folk from Athens by a small ferry. At the time the only access to the place. There is a long sandy beach stretching along the bay, with Oak and pine tree forests pushing up into the impressive mountains above.
The climbing here is very new here and only a 7 or 8 crags are developed so far, the potential is staggering. Still theres plenty of climbing for a weeks trip for all aspirations and grades. Its crags have perfect limestone rock with plenty of shady options an important consideration for this part of Europe.
Course base: Kyfanta Hotel Kyparissi www.kyfanta.com central to the town, close to the beach
Zobolo:
A new crag at the southern tip of the peloponnese. Zobolo is a superb limestone crag 135m high and is certainly a high quality climbing destination. Slabs, walls and steep tufas its all there on walls that face south towards the Ageon. The crags are a stones throw from the coast. As you are at the southern tip of the Peloponesse you can watch huge boats float past, on their way to Athens, all day long. For the archaeologist its heaven with many fossils exposed and even a fossolised palm tree forrest close to the crag. Watch out for the Tortoises shuffling along the trail , on route to the crag. The beaches are some of Greeces finest, white sandy and with crystal clear waters. Ancient temples, monestries and castles dot the landscape with every turn of the wiggly roads.
The courses will be based from Neapoli a bustling coastal resort with many bars, cafes and restaurants.
Course base Villa Georgina apartments.www.villa-georgina.com 20m from the sea just on the beach
The Programme
A suggest programme will depend on the type of climbing prefered. But certainly the three venues follow a logical journey down the coastline. Perhaps at least two nights in each venue is a good option. The on the journey a must is to visit the ancient walled town of Monemvasia. As all climbing venues are relatively close to the road and accommodation its not impossible to visit two venues a day, enjoy a midday swim and visit a cultural site within each day.
